RadiKarl #3: Meat cuts for connoisseurs

For the third part of the RadiKarl series of talks on culinary pleasure, host Andrin Willi meets Marlene Halter, founder and managing director of Metzgon Zurich's Langstrasse. This edition's topic: Special Cuts – lesser-known cuts of meat and how they help to make our meat consumption more sustainable.

When Marlene Halter opened her butcher's shop back in 2015, Zurich's meat culture was a lot less diverse than it is today. Terms like onglet, bavette, hanging tender and brisket were incomprehensible to the uninitiated. And it is precisely to this butcher's shop that Zurich owes, at least in part, the diversification that has occurred since.

Today, there are a whole host of gastro enterprises (and hobby cooks, like the writer of this article) interested in more sustainable meat processing solutions who are willing to this end, and in contrast to the so-called "noble cuts" such as fillet or entrecôte, to serve pan-fried offal or slow-cooked, tender braised cuts of the lesser-known kind. They do this because it is clearly not acceptable to "invest" calories in the form of grass and grain in the raising of animals just to process that which is not marketable as "noble cuts" into dog food. Consuming the special cuts, therefore, is not just a question of enjoyment, but also of sustainability and respect for the slaughtered animal.

Halter was trained by the legendary Tine Giacobbo at the Alpenrose one of the first Zurich eateries serving authentically cooked dishes from all over Switzerland), at Italia(where high artisanship continues to play a pivotal role today) at the Ziegelhütte and at Rosso. However, Marlene Halter has always had a great curiosity for meat and, during a trip to New York, took inspiration from the huge variety of cuts marketed and enjoyed in the USA.

The trained chef confesses that she "muddled her way, mainly self-taught, through the butcher's trade" – a fact that you would never surmise when visiting her lovingly furnished, professionally run shop at Helvetiaplatz.

The meatloaf sandwich comes highly recommended as the perfect introduction to their range. And if you're interested in the previously-mentioned "special cuts" then this evening is an absolute must for you because, in addition to being able to enjoy said cuts, there will also be a few tips and tricks for you to take away and enjoy at home. Such bliss!

What to expect:

Apéro

Pork ears with sorrel mayo

Gitzi-Züngli with wild greens

Flat Iron, Outside Skirt and Petite Tender of beef, asparagus and pistachio

Beetroot, rhubarb and lard biscuits

Click Here to see the menu and make your reservation – but be quick, the number of places is limited!