Magdi Beiz

Article in collaboration with Ruhe Visits

Eating with soil awareness

Welcome to the Magdi Beiz

Music flows from the front door of Eisengasse 5. Above it, the words “Restaurant St. Magdalena” are written in Gothic letters on the facade. In front of the building are small round tables that match the light green exterior. A few of them are already set for lunch. One even has a newspaper on it. “We have a lot of regulars,” Martina says as she greets us. “After a while, you just know what they like.”

In the old days, this alley was mostly known for its blacksmiths. Today, it's a place to enjoy life. The restaurant's history goes all the way back to 1803. Over the years, the concept has changed several times. Before Thomas, Martina, Carla, and Steffen took over the Magdi Beiz, it was mainly a pub. “There’s always been a restaurant upstairs,” Thomas explains. “But the main business used to be the bar on the ground floor.”

Today it is primarily a restaurant again. The bar on the ground floor still exists. “Carlos ran St. Magdalena for about 33 years before us. Such a cool guy. He always worked barefoot,” Thomas says with a smile.

A staircase leads up to the dining area, where sunlight streams in through the windows. The furniture is mismatched but clearly chosen with care. Each piece seems to tell its own story. “We started during the pandemic,” Martina says. “We didn’t have much of a budget back then.” They furnished the place with what they had, along with help from friends and family.

P.S. If you're in the mood for a walk after your visit, head up to the Musegg Wall (Museggmauer). From there, you'll get a stunning view of Lucerne’s old town, Lake Lucerne, and Mount Pilatus rising in the background. You might even spot the roof of the Magdi Beiz from up there.

If it’s in season, there’s room for it

The kitchen is Thomas and Steffen’s domain. “It’s not big, but it’s enough for the two of us,” Thomas says with a smile. Preparations for the lunch service are underway. But before they get started, the team takes time to sit down and eat together. “That way, we can taste everything before we serve it.” There is a changing lunch menu every week: soup or salad to start, followed by a main course, either meat or vegetarian. The menu is planned one week in advance. What gets cooked is a team decision based on what is in season. This week it is a meatloaf or vegetarian meatloaf with potatoes and asparagus. “We love cooking with meat, but we always want to offer an equally good vegetarian option,” Steffen says as he grabs two plates and heads to the dining room to serve the first course. Thomas and Steffen often help Martina and Carla with service by bringing the food to the tables themselves. For those who want, there is a “5-Liber dessert” at the end, a sweet treat about the size of a Swiss 5-franc coin.

They go to the market twice a week, on Tuesdays and Saturdays. “Unfortunately, not by bike. That kind of romance just isn’t there,” Thomas laughs. “I have one of those grandma carts.” Whenever possible, the products come from the local area and from producers they know personally or whose methods they trust. “It doesn’t necessarily need a certificate or organic label,” Thomas explains. “What matters more is the care and the way things are done.” A healthy, living soil is central to this. “We also like to use second-choice vegetables. Just because they don’t meet some arbitrary standard doesn’t mean they’re bad.” They also try to minimize waste during preparation. Everything that’s edible should be used.

In the evening, there is a small menu, but it’s rarely needed. Most guests prefer to be surprised and choose the “Le Petit Bonheur,” a menu designed to delight without overwhelming. Part of this menu is often Thomas’s specialty. “My grandfather always made pâté en croûte. I rediscovered the craft during the pandemic, at first just for friends and family.” There is no exact recipe. “It develops over years of experience. I just go with the flow and use whatever is available,” he says as he places a piece on the plate, garnishing it with onion jam and pickled cucumbers.

Full of stories and warmth

“Have you had enough?” Martina asks with a warm smile. “Our portions are relatively small, but you’re always welcome to ask for more,” she says as she takes away the empty plates. Each plate has a different design. “We have quite a few like this. They come from the family. Every one is unique and even has a name written on the bottom.”

Many of the furnishings come from friends or family. A friend made the flower vases by hand. The photos on the walls were taken by a couple of friends. They show Lucerne from very different perspectives. “That photo back there shows our favorite spot,” Martina says, pointing to a picture of a small outdoor table. “It’s at the Restaurant 3-Könige, where Thomas used to work before we took over the Magdi Beiz.”

The Magdi Beiz is literally shaped by its people. It’s about relationships, friendships, and being together. It’s about sharing, learning from each other, and supporting one another.

“You just want to sit at the table with people you truly care about, get lost in conversation, laugh together, and enjoy the moment. Then suddenly the next course arrives, pulling you briefly away from the conversation. You take a bite and think, ‘Wow, this is really good!’ Then you dive right back in.”

P.S. Next time you visit the Magdi Beiz, you might spot our favorite piece of decor. Here’s a little hint: it was knitted by one of Thomas and Martina’s neighbors. ;)n. Some of the pencil sketches on the walls are works by Zurich-based designer Aline Telek.

This article is part of our collaboration with Ruhe Visits. We visit selected restaurants and producers who stand out for their particularly grounded and mindful approach — and share their stories.

Producers Restaurants